Preparing | What to Cleanup | Uninstall Programs
Archiving Data | Storing Backups | Checklists
Smartphones & Tablets
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There are several situations where you should be cleaning up your computer, including:
Where I use the term “computer” it can also apply to any of the various electronic devices that we use these days including smartphones and tablets (even smart devices like Google Home). Many of these devices are more powerful than desktop computers were a decade or two ago.
All of these carry personal information that should be managed like you would your paper filing systems.
Before you begin the cleanup process, you'll want to ensure that your computer is ready.
This process ensures that there is nothing running that will interfere with the cleanup process and that you're not backing up infected or unnecessary files.
I strongly recommend that you backup your files before proceeding.
Even though you may be planning to delete or archive unnecessary files during your cleanup, this provides a recovery option if you mistakenly delete a file that you need in the future.
This would be a good time to delete obsolete or unnecessary downloads and move downloaded bills and similar files into their proper location in Documents.
Many programs can be downloaded again if you require them. Protect those you can't obtain again without paying by placing them into a permanent folder.
Move program installers that aren't easily retrieved into a separate folder to avoid accidental erasure.
Similarly, drivers should be moved into separate folders labelled to indicate what they are for (e.g., “HP CP1215 Win10 Drivers”).
Be sure to retain copies of these on removable media in case of a hard drive failure or accidental erasure.
So many of our household utility and other bills are provided online these days using cryptic names that may mean something to the sender, but otherwise cannot quickly be identified.
Your browser tends to treat electronic invoices and PDF documents just like other downloads and saves them automatically into the Downloads folder. Photos may be saved in the Pictures folder, even if they are screen captures or similar documentary images.
Sort these files into their appropriate folders in Documents, renaming them as necessary, so that you can find them later. Use standard categories to group them in folders such as:
An invoice named BV2203127336.pdf may make sense to the company that issued it, but you may have difficulty identifying it later, especially if it is just one of many lumped into your downloads folder.
Modify or add a date (sorting the files by date received helps) so that monthly bills can easily be separated by year as well as an easily identified vendor name (e.g., 22Mar12_chiropractor_7336.pdf).
The format 22Mar12 for March 12, 2022 helps avoids confusion.
The 22/03/12 all-numeric format might sort better, but can be misinterpreted as December 3 if someone doesn't realize you're using YY/MM/DD.
When using numeric dates, there are several standards:
Whichever you use, be sure to document it for those that may have to deal with your system such as employees, family members or your executor.
Digital photos often have cryptic names that are based upon the order they were taken by the smart phone or digital camera rather than their subject or date.
Organizing these into folders by subject and date can make them easier to find and more pleasant to view and share with friends and family.
People often download multiple copies of an installer.
Remove any installers that you no longer use or are obsolete (archiving them, if they are important or cannot be downloaded again). This will make it easier the next time you need to install a program or reinstall your operating system.
Once you've prepared your computer and have a reliable backup, you can proceed to the cleanup process.
This is where you plan your cleanup process.
Consider the following when choosing how to deal with files and programs:
Plan your strategy for backup and potential recovery carefully.
Each of these situations requires a different approach:
Whatever your reason for disposing of a computer, you want to ensure that it is free of any personal programs and data.
When replacing your computer, you'll want to move any personal files and licensed programs to the new computer.
Backup the data and any information necessary to install the programs and data onto your new computer then ensure that everything is working before you do a clean install on the old computer that you're replacing.
Once you wipe the hard drive on the old computer, any opportunity to recover data or programs is limited to your backups and stored data.
Unless you are junking your old computer, you'll need to identify and set aside any items that will be sold or provided with the computer. If you're lending the computer and expect it back later, you might consider that the recovery disks or driver DVDs may be lost and keep either the originals or copies of those.
The method of restoring a computer to its original (vendor-released state) depends upon both the sort of computer and how old it is.
In modern operating systems like Windows 10, Windows 11 or Macs, the installation media is usually downloaded but may require you to log into your account to install it.
Windows computers require a licence key, usually found on a sticker on the side of a desktop computer or on the bottom of a laptop.
Most computers now require you to have a Microsoft account (Windows), Apple ID (macOS) or Google account (Chromebook). Linux has no such requirement which makes it an ideal replacement operating system.
While most device drivers (software that talks to hardware) will install automatically with these operating systems, it would be a good idea to retain a copy of any drivers provided with your computer or downloaded during installation.
Most vendors provide drivers online, but you'll need to know which operating system you're running as well as which version of the hardware you have.
Start with the manufacturer and model number. This is usually indicated on a the licence sticker or near it.
If the computer is a system build (i.e., not a brand name computer), then the motherboard vendor will determine the sorts of drivers you'll need. Look for a model number stamped on the motherboard (requires you to open the case). Most dealers provide an invoice listing components as well as include the original motherboard packing case with any driver disks, cables, manuals, etc. inside.
Modern computers are almost always 64-bit (both hardware and software) but there can be exceptions, especially in hardware upgraded from older versions of Windows.
Linux is a free operating system and you can obtain the installation media online. There are both 32- and 64-bit versions, often with a choice of the interface such as Linux Mint's options for Cinnamon, Mate and Xfce editions.
Brand name computers purchased from box stores or online may use a recovery partition to reinstall the operating system as well as all the software that came with the computer.
While recovery disks were commonly included with older systems, like printed manuals these are no longer provided with the computer. You have to create these when the computer is first run. Recovery disks may be available from the vendor, but that is rare and often expensive.
When searching for drivers, you'll need to know what hardware is in your particular computer. Many vendors use two or more different brands of the various internal hardware components, so each machine is unique. For example, a single model of laptop could contain either an Intel or AMD motherboard. Most, but not all, include this information on a sticker advertising the system's specifications beside the keyboard.
Sometimes a vendor provides a software utility that can identify the components included in your computer (your system needs to be running to use it). Online vendors like Dell and Gateway provide some sort of inventory tag number that identifies the components in your system (usually on the bottom, next to the licence key).
An alternative is the Speccy utility. The free edition works for most home users.
Computers upgraded from a previous Windows version by a local dealer may provide the upgrade licence in PDF format stored on the hard drive. You'll need this for installation because the sticker on the case will be from a prior version of Windows. If the computer fails, you won't have access to this PDF document, so I suggest you print the document then attach it to the computer case.
Windows 10 computers upgraded from Windows 7 or 8.1 usually use the original licence key to reinstall Windows 10. Windows 11 is a free upgrade from Windows 10.
Legacy (older) computers running Windows 7 and older usually came with installation media on DVDs or a recovery partition (possibly with a set of recovery disks you needed to create when you first obtained the system).
DVDs containing the necessary drivers were included with motherboards for custom-built computers. As DVD drives are seldom found on new computers, this practice has been discontinued.
Details are found in Recovering the Operating System on the Backup & Recovery Strategies page.
How you deal with programs will depend upon the situation.
If you don't intend to use the program on another computer, you may simply uninstall them, but you should determine if a program is truly obsolete (and therefore unsafe to use) or simply unnecessary. Deal with them accordingly.
Obsolete programs that you cannot use in the future or those for which the licence has expired may only require to backup the data after running any export utilities that can save the data in a format compatible with newer software. The license key may provide you with an upgrade discount.
One example is exporting mail and contacts from PocoMail to a format that can be imported into a newer email client like The Bat!
How you deal with unnecessary programs depends upon whether you wish to retain the option for future use.
Even expired programs may provide a cheaper upgrade option in the future if you retain the installation media and/or licence.
If you're transferring programs from one computer to another one, you may have to deactivate some programs before uninstalling them, ensuring that no portions remain on the old computer. Only then can you install them on the new computer and reactivate them.
Some programs may not be compatible with your new computer.
For example, if you're moving from Windows to a Mac, you may need to purchase a Mac-compatible version of your old Windows software.
Microsoft Office requires a Mac-compatible version, but Microsoft 365 works on both PCs and Macs.
LibreOffice and similar open-source programs can provide free alternatives, but you need to be sure that the free licence is valid if you are using it for a business.
A cross-platform upgrade price for your new computer's operating system may save you money if the vendor supports both.
If the software was provided with the computer (even when provided on external media such as a CD or DVD), it belongs with that computer.
In most cases the licensing goes with the computer and you cannot legally use the program(s) elsewhere.
Usually this software will be installed automatically by the recovery software or partition. Some exceptions may apply, but you have to assume the new owner will install the software at some point in the future even if you don't install it.
Be sure to remove any third-party software from the computer that is licensed to you, even if you don't intend to use it. The licence is usually not transferable. That doesn't apply to freeware.
There is more about the complications of transferring and reinstalling software in Recovering Programs, including the complications of moving Windows software to another computer.
The easiest way for Windows users to uninstall programs is to use the Apps & Features in Windows settings (Start ⇒ Settings ⇒ Apps ⇒ Apps & Features).
Remember, some programs like Photoshop and Microsoft Office require deactivation before you uninstall them, especially if you're reinstalling Windows or removing the programs permanently. If you don't deactivate the software, you may be unable to reinstall it unless the vendor accepts your explanation for failing to deactivate the software.
CCleaner provides an alternative when you have difficulty using either the Apps & Features built into Windows or the uninstaller that comes with some programs. Click on Tools then Uninstall then select the program to be removed.
Your mileage may vary. The removal of some Windows software using this method may corrupt your Windows installation or disable Windows Update.
Not all programs can be uninstalled. The clean install will take care of those programs and any residual settings or data.
Mac programs are installed differently than Windows programs and are uninstalled differently.
Programs obtained from the App Store can be deleted by holding the mouse down on the icon until it begins to shake (some call it “wiggle”) just like on the iPhone or iPad. If a red X appears beside the icon, it can be deleted by clicking that X.
Third party programs obtained outside of the App Store usually can be simply deleted from the Application folder. Unlike Windows programs, most Mac programs don't create files everywhere.
Ensure that you retain the installer and any registration information because, unlike App Store apps, there is no simple recovery mechanism if you accidentally delete a wanted program.
If you have difficulty with a third-party application, contact the developer for help.
If something goes wrong and you accidentally delete something you shouldn't have, restore it from the backup you created before you began this process.
Data is generally unreplaceable at any cost.
While you could repurchase a program that was accidentally deleted, the same cannot be said of your photos from your Hawaiian vacation or your completed tax files and supporting documentation.
The term “archiving data” means moving data you no longer actively use to an external location that is safe and secured against theft and accidental erasure such as a removable drive or online storage.
This is different from backups, which are meant for recovery of data and programs currently in use.
You should be able to restore that data if required in the future even if your computer is stolen or destroyed.
When archiving files, separate these from regular backups so that individual files can be recovered or disposed of permanently in the future as the situation demands.
The retention of archived data files depends a lot on your personal requirements as well as legal requirements which vary by jurisdiction.
Photos cannot be replaced and are very personal in nature so you'll need to determine what your retention policies should be. One possibility is archiving originals while keeping smaller or edited versions on your computer and devices.
When you are permanently removing data from your computer that is no longer useful and for which you have determined that you do NOT require an archive you may still want to retain a backup copy for a while.
Like buyer's remorse, you may have a change of heart after deleting some files.
These backups can be removed when you are certain that you no longer need the files in question.
A thumb drive will usually work for this purpose because it can be reused as long as there is space. You can place the drive into an envelope listing the sorts of files stored on the drive for future reference.
When choosing how you will store your archives and backups you'll want to consider the following:
For most people USB hard drives and thumb drives provide the most economical choice, provided you take precautions to prevent theft or accidental erasure. If you have a safe or firebox, most devices are small enough to be stored there.
Any removable media, including thumb drives and solid state drives, can stop working at any time. My experience with thumb drives is that I was unable to add or delete data, but that the information on the drive was retrievable. You mileage may vary, so act accordingly depending upon the value of the data.
There is more about backup devices on the Backup & Recovery Strategies page.
Choose a backup device and plan that works for you and your circumstances.
Security is probably a more important concern for businesses than individuals, but loss of critical tax or legal data can affect both.
Consider the implications if the backup device is stolen, misplaced or damaged. Could you replace the information or even know where to begin?
Referring to online backup servers as being “in the cloud” is misleading.
These are large clusters of computers and storage devices, running imperfect software, managed by imperfect staff and too easily accessible from anywhere in the world.
What if your identity and login for an online backup service is compromised in a data breach? These have become far too common.
It is easier to break into an account using the password recovery mechanism than to hack a password because too many companies use the same basic questions — with answers that can be easily guessed by looking at your social media profile and postings.
USB devices in your possession are also subject to theft and other disasters.
Many such devices can be secured with encryption (check that feature when purchasing the device) but the safest and best security is to physically store the devices in a wall safe or other secure location.
Reliability of the storage medium is critical. After a computer disaster is a poor time to learn that your archives and backups are corrupted or unavailable.
Be sure to make a note of your passwords, whether it be for your online backup service or encryption used for your backups or on the backup device itself.
I recommend a password manager for safe, reliable storage of passwords and other sensitive information because it is encrypted and available online from any device.
Cost calculations should include both price and storage space.
This can be the cost per MB or GB but should also consider reliability. Trusting your critical backups or archives to bargain-basement media is foolhardy.
Ensure that you can easily and quickly add to the available backup space if your circumstances or the amount of data increases suddenly.
A USB-based hard drive or thumb drive is easy to use but limited in both the size of the storage media. Unlike online services, it cannot be automatically increased by changing your subscription but requires that you purchase a new, larger device.
Choose a device not only for the current requirements, but for future needs. Larger is better. Fortunately, pricing for larger 1 terrabyte and larger media has become very reasonable.
Online services require a working Internet connection as well as a reliable vendor. I recommend a local backup to supplement your online backup that contains at least the most critical files as well as any files needed to recover your system to the point where your online service becomes available.
This combination provides you with quick local access combined with protection against a disaster affecting your home or office.
Companies change policies or ownership and some services may become unavailable. Be sure you're covered if you lose access to your online backups for whatever reason.
You'll want to factor in the cost of online storage and how it is being charged. A monthly or annual fee for online backups may provide a predictable cost for business or personal backups.
Online backups may take significant bandwidth and could cause you to hit monthly data caps resulting in significant surcharges or force you to increase your monthly data plan.
This is a problem because Canadians pay some of the highest rates for Internet and cellular service in the world.
There are also security concerns because control of your own data is now managed by a company at distance. Company policies change and a data breach could make private or confidential files public.
If your backups are stored outside Canada, then it is subject to search without warrants. Unlike American citizens, Canadians aren't protected by U.S. law. Europe is probably safer.
Canadian privacy laws are antiquated, mostly written before computers and the Internet were in common use. Most privacy breaches would not face significant fines even with the government's new “tougher” penalties.
Over the past few years, repeated incidents have shown that our current legal framework is inadequate in providing protections against data breaches and bad actors who seek to use our personal information in ways that counteract our laws and values.
— OpenMedia
A one-time fee for a removable backup device with sufficient space for the foreseeable future may be less costly in the long run than a monthly service fee. They are available from many vendors or online.
Such devices do fail just like online services so you need to ensure that there is alternative backups, particularly for archived material.
Some, like the Western Digital My Book, have no on/off switch. Leaving these connected to your computer makes the data on these drives vulnerable to ransomware or accidental deletion.
Thumb drives have become the new floppies. They are very portable and can be purchased very reasonably with a significant amount of storage for documents and similar data with smaller file sizes.
Those devices can be easily stored or carried with you without concerns about bulk or weight. However, they are more difficult to label and can be easily misplaced or stolen. A lanyard attached to the device can help with these issues.
The security and reliability of a backup service or device is of little help if you cannot access it.
A USB-based hard drive or thumb drive can be stored nearby and the smaller devices can be stored in a safe or other secure location to protect them from theft, fire or other disaster.
More sensitive information may be more secure in a safety deposit box or similar storage, but you will have limited access subject to the bank's hours.
Business owners need to ensure their business can access any necessary backups if you are incapacitated or are otherwise unable to retrieve the necessary device.
Retaining backups both onsite and offsite in secure locations provides for both quick access to deal with immediate needs as well as protection from a local disaster such as a fire or flood.
Acronis True Image includes an archiving feature which allows you to move large or rarely used files to either a backup device or the cloud but recent versions of True Image now include built-in security software that generally won't play nicely with other security software.
For this reason, Acronis True Image no longer recommended.
These are some checklists and recommendations for the process of cleaning up your computer and devices.
Be sure to perform regularly backups in case you device failure or loss.
Your hard drive may be getting full and you want to remove unnecessary files.
You should occasionally check your security and privacy settings.
You can also schedule time for annual or semi-annual cleanups.
The ultimate digital clean-up checklist has advice for the year-end transfer of files needed for your tax return as well as the cleanup of irrelevant notifications and email.
I haven't tested any of cleanup software except CCleaner.
Read the cautions to avoid damaging anything when cleaning your computer's hardware and components.
When you improperly clean your screen, be it your computer monitor or your television, it's only a matter of time before you damage it.
— How-To Geek
Your smartphone and tablet can use regular cleanup:
While more drastic, a factory reset will get rid of a lot of problems.
[B]roadly speaking, a reset will put your gadget back into its factory-fresh state. Missing files get replaced, corrupt files get wiped, badly configured settings are rolled back, and third-party plug-ins and add-ons — the source of many a device issue — get banished too.
— Gizmodo
Almost half of mobile users have never traded in their devices, a recent study shows, in part due to privacy concerns.
— PCMag
You'll want to ensure that your device is free of personal information. A factory reset is the best way to do this.
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Updated: January 2, 2024